Rethink Organic
The negative impacts of modern-day chemical fertilisers are undeniable, from contaminated waterways to wide-scale soil degradation. With a planet almost at breaking point and a growing number of mouths to feed, is ‘going organic’ our best option for a greener future? Or is it yet another false friend? To find out, we must peel back the label on organic foods and find exactly what we’re buying into.
Illustrated by Caitlin Noble.
As concerns surrounding the impacts of modern agriculture on UK wildlife continue to grow, the country saw a sharp increase in shoppers filling their baskets with organic goods last year. With proven benefits to soil health and minimal impacts on waterways and the atmosphere, organically grown fruits and vegetables are proving particularly popular. This ‘organic revolution’ is reflected in the 15% increase in sales of organic produce in 2020, according to the Soil Association’s recent organic market report. But does cutting out chemicals really provide a solution to the climate crisis? Unfortunately, it’s not that simple.
The “Organic Revolution”
The practice of environmentally-conscious farming has been commonplace for centuries and was almost universal before the introduction of chemical fertilisers and pesticides into the UK in the 1850s. Today, organic farming allows crop yield to be maintained whilst enabling our countryside to still act as a haven for birds and insects, many of which are in rapid decline. Overviewing this mission, organic governing bodies such as the Soil Association promised to guide farmers in developing their businesses whilst easing the concerns of eco-conscious shoppers with fresh produce grown in healthy, living soil.
Regulations on crop rotation and manure application, alongside regular monitoring of soil and crop quality, constitute just some of the strict list of standards farmers meet to gain and maintain this organic stamp of approval – and with great success. Since its founding in 1946, the Soil Association has seen thousands of growers convert to a more environmentally-conscious way of farming and has partnered in schemes such as the ‘Food for Life Partnership’, which continues to grant schools and communities access to seasonal, local, and organic food. Organic certification standards are so high that their work is undoubtedly beneficial to our environment, safeguarding the above- and below-ground biome and protecting some of the 4,049 species currently estimated to be threatened by agriculture alone.
So, what’s the problem? While well-funded farms are generally able to maintain such high standards with ease, those that are unable to commit the time and money to obtain certification - usually smaller, family-run businesses - risk falling behind.
Without the certification, produce can legitimately be sold as organic on a direct market but not on supermarket shelves. Certification bodies recognise some common barriers to certification (for example, sourcing manure from organically reared livestock, or seeds from organic parent crops) and offer routes around them to achieve the same organic status as larger farms. However, the number of producers who farm sustainably but choose to remain uncertified is on the rise. Since 2008, the total area of UK organic farmland has dropped by 34% from 743.5 thousand to 489 thousand hectares in 2020. To many growers, even those where environmentally-conscious farming is a common practise, the time and cost of certification is simply not worth the additional customers it may bring. As a result, the voices of local producers are struggling to be heard and retailers are becoming increasingly dependent on international trade in order to meet the rising demands of pro-organic shoppers.
The hidden cost
Currently, 47% of vegetables and 84% of fruit on UK shelves are imported. One study traced the environmental footprint of imported apples, runner beans, and watercress to UK food retailer, Marks & Spencer. Impacts on global warming were found to be equal in both conventionally and organically grown produce, particularly when it comes to their carbon footprints. The UK’s largest supermarket, Tesco, sells more packs of bananas than any other organic product on its shelves averaging 261,000 imported, organic bananas per day. With each air-freighted kilogram equating to almost 5kg of CO2 released into the atmosphere, this equates to over 174,000kg CO2 each day, enough to power 21 homes for a whole year. Whilst there remains a fair debate on the value overseas goods provide for increasing employment in poorer countries, these numbers do raise the question as to whether organic food is being mis-sold to us as environmentally friendly. Meanwhile, there remains an abundance of chemical-free produce in local soil, just lacking official organic certification.
To certify or not to certify, the decision of farmers generally comes down to personal choice. Crucially, a farmer’s decision not to certify does not necessarily mean that their farm is less environmentally friendly than a farmer who does. Each farm and farmer is different, leaving all the judgement down to consumer trust. But you would be hard-pressed to find a small-scale farmer without a moral compass set to the health of their land. Furthermore, small-scale farms add enormous value to local communities and wildlife alike, providing another reason to look locally before heading to the supermarket. A report by the Campaign to Protect Rural England shows a decline in small-scale farms, with a loss of almost one-third of under 50ha-farms recorded in the space of just ten years. It is important to note here that organic certification is not exclusive to larger farms. Rather, smaller farms are often encouraged to apply for organic certification with financial grants. But if those who opt out of the process continue to be excluded from the retail market in favour of large, overseas operations, businesses - particularly small businesses - will struggle to stay afloat. Yes, consumer trust is vital, and certification provides this when it comes to environmental standards on supermarket shelves. But perhaps introducing shoppers to local growers generates equal, if not a higher level of trust in the care and attention many small-scale farmers pay towards environmentally-friendly practices.
Final thoughts
To be clear, this discussion is not intended to be anti-organic. In fact, I hope it promotes a pro-organic, pro-environmental, pro-nature point of view. Retailers need to take a big step towards stocking and marketing uncertified, local produce into their campaigns for more sustainable shopping. And as a consumer, I encourage you to rethink your shopping habits before reaching for green labels. Instead, we would all be doing better by the planet to focus on the bigger picture; check where the product was grown and, if possible, find a local alternative. Shopping in-season is a good way of finding locally-grown produce, or simply look out for the UK flag on packaging. Better still, if you’re fortunate enough to live close to an independently-owned farm (certified or non-certified) cut out the middleman and try swapping your usual produce for some fresh-from-the-ground varieties. I am sure that the land, its wildlife, and the farming family you’d be supporting will sincerely thank you.
Anna Harrison
Anna is a recent graduate of MSci Biology & Marine Biology from the University of Southampton, currently working as an Agricultural Scientist in South Devon. Having started her path into wildlife conservation through a fascination with the deep sea, Anna believes that bridging the gap between the natural sciences is key to creating a more united and sustainable future. Also driven by a passion for nature communication, Anna has worked in education and ecotourism sectors across the world, encouraging others – young and old – to look after our blue (and green) planet. Anna is a social media manager.